In praise of Kentish ale and cider

I am going down today to see my hardworking friend and publican, Sarah Farrow, who runs the George & Dragon pub in the village of Headcorn in Kent. It was in Headcorn, just over three years ago, that the idea of forming Green Left was first mooted and where the 'Headcorn Declaration' our founding statement, was drawn up. Sarah was the Co-Convenor of Green Left last year, but running a successful village pub, especially in this economic climate, is a full time job and she effectively works around the clock, meaning that there is little time available for politics. Despite this, she has been a Parish Councillor in the village and also played a major role in the Headcorn Sustainability venture, setting up a small shop at the back of the pub selling local and sustainable produce. The picture shows Sarah behind the counter of the George & Dragon.

The George & Dragon has developed an enviable reputation for its food and local produce, as well as its aptly named local 'Double Vision' cider. It is a drink to be approached with caution. I am very concerned about the ongoing closure of local pubs, and some have jokingly given me the title 'Commissar for Pubs' but the fact is that the local pub, somewhat similarly to the Post Office, plays an essential role in the local community. I also think that they can be unfairly blamed for the rise in binge drinking, when often the blame can be laid at the doors of the supermarkets selling subsidised alcohol, whereas the pubs are hit by the full taxation.

Yesterday an article in a London paper pointed out how pub closures are now reaching six a week in the capital and demonstrated how pubs are trying to fight back by offering new services. One pub is offering to wash dogs while customers relax on the premises, thus cornering the dog owners' custom. Another is offering a postal and parcel collection service, so instead of having to go to the collection depot, which in my area is only open for a few hours a day, you can collect your post at the local pub.

Food is another major draw and the magazine 'Kent Life' had the following to say about Sarah and the George & Dragon and on pubs more generally:

"At The George & Dragon in Headcorn, another pub doing very well, its owners, Sarah and John Farrow, have taken the appeal of local food that bit further. “Our entire menu is dominated by local produce and if customers like what they have eaten, such as one of our pies, then they can buy some more to take home,” explains Sarah.
Food club
“They can also join our food club, which gives them a discount on the food we sell, plus the chance to come to events where local producers talk about what they do. We’ve found that food is making all the difference. It’s really integrated the pub with the local community and also given us a wider appeal across the county.”

The success of The George and Dragon and The Plough reveal that even in a difficult environment, by offering something a bit different there remains room to prosper. It might also illustrate that in the future more pubs will have to innovate and change if they want to thrive.

That said, Carole Dalgleish, of the West Kent branch of CAMRA, feels many issues still need to be addressed. “Our pubs, whether in towns or villages, are a vital part of their community, places where people from all backgrounds can get together and socialise,” she says.
“The pub plays a key role in any community and that needs to be realised, otherwise we risk losing more of them, which is something that I think we will all come to regret.”

Long live the local pub.